How to grow Raspberry in New Zealand
Raspberries thrive in New Zealand gardens with cold winters, and a short row of canes gives berries for years. Summer fruiting varieties crop heavily from the central North Island south, while autumn fruiting types such as Heritage are the better pick in milder northern gardens.
At a glance
When to plant by region
| Region | When to plant | Regional note |
|---|---|---|
| Northland | June and July | Marginal. Winters are too mild for summer fruiting raspberries; try an autumn fruiting type such as Heritage with afternoon shade. |
| Auckland | June to August | Mild winters suit autumn fruiting types such as Heritage best. Give them afternoon shade and steady water in summer. |
| Waikato & Bay of Plenty | June to August | |
| Central North Island | June to August | |
| Wellington & Lower North Island | June to August | |
| Nelson & Marlborough | June to August | Plant bare rooted canes Jun to Aug. Classic raspberry country, where Plant & Food Research bred Moutere. |
| Canterbury | June to August | Plant bare rooted canes Jun to Aug. Cold winters suit every type; shelter the row from strong nor'westers. |
| Otago & Southland | June to August | |
| Central Otago | June to August | Plant bare rooted canes Jun to Aug. Cold winters suit every type; water steadily through the dry summer. |
Where to plant
Yates NZ and the RNZIH both note that raspberries do best where winters are cold, in full sun, and that in warmer places they like a little protection from the afternoon sun. Choose a sheltered spot with deep, free draining soil; raspberry roots rot in soil that stays wet, so plant on a raised row on heavy ground.
Raspberry (Rubus idaeus) has been naturalised in New Zealand since 1870, but it is not on the National Pest Plant Accord, which bans the sale of wild blackberry, and it is not on DOC's list of environmental weeds. Japanese wineberry, a different Rubus, is an environmental weed, so do not plant it. Keep raspberry suckers within the row.
- Central North Island, Wellington, Nelson, Canterbury, Otago and Southland: summer and autumn fruiting types all crop well. Nelson, where Plant & Food Research bred Moutere, is classic raspberry country.
- Auckland, Waikato and the Bay of Plenty: autumn fruiting types such as Heritage are the most reliable; give afternoon shade and steady water in summer.
- Northland: marginal. Winters are too mild for summer fruiting types; try Heritage in a spot with afternoon shade.
Choosing a variety
Summer fruiting (floricane) varieties fruit in early summer on canes grown the year before. Autumn fruiting (primocane) varieties fruit from late summer on canes grown that season and are simpler to prune.
- Moutere: a summer fruiting raspberry bred by Plant & Food Research and selected near Motueka, with large, firm berries and heavy crops.
- Heritage: an autumn fruiting variety that fruits on new canes, the best choice for milder districts.
- Buy packaged canes from a garden centre in winter rather than suckers from an old patch, which can carry virus.
How to plant
- Clear the weeds first, as competition slows young raspberries badly.
- Put in the support: a post at each end of the row with one wire at about 1 m and another at about 1.4 m, as Yates NZ suggests.
- Dig in compost and plant the canes in winter, about 40 to 50 cm apart along the row, with rows 1.5 to 2 m apart, at the depth they grew before.
- Water in well and keep the soil moist for several weeks, then mulch with woodchip or pea straw kept clear of the canes.
- Cut newly planted canes back to about 20 cm to encourage strong new canes.
Watering and feeding
Water deeply once or twice a week in dry weather, as Yates NZ advises, from spring until the end of harvest. A drip line under mulch keeps the shallow roots moist and the fruit dry.
Feed in late winter as growth starts, as the RNZIH recommends, with a balanced citrus and fruit fertiliser or compost and sheep pellets, and again lightly in early summer for autumn fruiting types.
Pruning and care through the year
- Summer fruiting types: in mid winter, or straight after harvest, remove the canes that have already fruited and tie the strongest new canes to the wires.
- Autumn fruiting types: cut every cane to the ground in winter; new canes fruit from late summer.
- Hoe out suckers that come up outside a narrow row so air moves through the canes.
- Net the row against birds as the fruit colours.
Harvesting
Summer fruiting varieties ripen in December and January, and autumn fruiting types from about February until the first frosts. Pick when the berries are fully coloured and slide off the core easily, every two or three days, ideally in the morning.
Keep berries in the fridge unwashed and use them within a day or two, or freeze them on a tray for jam and baking.
Growing in pots
Autumn fruiting types grow well in a pot at least 40 cm wide and deep, in quality potting mix with a stake. Water often in summer and cut all the canes to the ground each winter.
Propagation
In winter, dig a healthy sucker with roots attached from a vigorous, heavy cropping plant and replant it. Avoid suckers from weak or crumbly fruited plants, which may carry virus.
Companion planting
Keep the row clear of other plants so the canes dry quickly after rain. Flowering herbs nearby bring in bees.
Good companions
- Garlic A compact edging crop that does not shade the canes.
- Chives Small clumps whose flowers bring in bees.
- Marigold Brings hoverflies and other helpful insects.
- Borage Its blue flowers draw bees, which help the berries set fully.
Keep apart
Avoid planting these close to raspberry.
- Potato Hosts verticillium wilt; do not plant raspberries where potatoes grew recently.
- Tomato Hosts verticillium wilt, which also attacks raspberries.
- Blackberry Shares pests and diseases; wild blackberry is also a declared pest plant.
Pests and diseases
Birds take the most fruit. Grey mould is the main fruit rot in wet summers, and root rot kills canes on wet soil.
Pests to watch for
- Birds Ripe berries pecked or stripped. Net the row.
- Two-spotted mite Fine pale speckling on leaves in hot, dry weather, with webbing underneath.
- Leafroller Small caterpillars that roll and web leaves together and sometimes hide in the fruit.
- Aphids Clusters of small insects on new shoots.
Diseases to watch for
- Grey mould Grey, furry mould on ripening berries in wet weather. Pick often and keep the row open.
- Root rot Canes wilt and die on soil that stays wet. Plant on raised rows.
- Anthracnose Purple spots with grey centres on young canes, known as cane spot.
Common questions
When do I plant raspberries in New Zealand?
In winter, from June to August, when packaged bare rooted canes are in the shops. They sell out quickly, so buy early.
Can I grow raspberries in Auckland?
Yes, but choose an autumn fruiting variety such as Heritage. Mild winters do not give summer fruiting types enough chill, and some afternoon shade helps in summer.
Is raspberry a pest plant in New Zealand?
No. Raspberry is naturalised but is not on the National Pest Plant Accord or DOC's environmental weed list. Wild blackberry is on the Accord, and Japanese wineberry is an environmental weed, so do not plant either.
How do I prune raspberries?
Remove summer fruiting canes once they have fruited and keep the new canes for next year. Cut autumn fruiting types to the ground every winter.
How far apart do I plant raspberries?
About 40 to 50 cm apart along the row, with rows 1.5 to 2 m apart so you can reach both sides to pick.
Why are my raspberries rotting on the plant?
Usually grey mould in wet weather. Pick ripe fruit every couple of days, remove rotten berries, and thin the canes so the row dries quickly.
Sources we checked: Yates NZ: How to grow raspberry; RNZIH: Raspberries and strawberries; Palmers: How to grow raspberries in New Zealand; NZ Plant Conservation Network: Rubus idaeus; NZ Plant Conservation Network: Rubus phoenicolasius (Japanese wineberry); Plant & Food Research: raspberry 'Moutere' (US plant patent PP17744).